PB 1600 PSE Temp Test

[Texas Sooner]

I've been cooking for years on a Pit Barrel Cooker (PBC), and I've done a lot of temp research on it to fully understand how it worked so that I could best utilize it. I recently purchased a 1600PSE and wanted to do the same thing with it.

I have a FireBoard System that I used extensively on my PBC as it could run up to 6 probes and a fan - basically, it acted as a digital controller for my PBC, and it has BT and WiFi connectivity. So, when I burned in my new 1600PSE, I put two of my FireBoard's ambient probes on the bottom side of the middle grate to see how the actual temps compared to the Pit Boss controller, along with seeing the temp variance from side to side. One of the great things about FireBoard is that you can share your sessions with others. Here is the link to the times and temps during my burn-in.

https://share.fireboard.io/B96440

As you can see by running your mouse pointer along the graph, the variance from left to right was 75°-80° and 30°-40° above and below the PB Controller's temp. I was aware of these issues with temp variances and had read about the mods that Smokes Like A Boss had come up with to address them. So, I ordered and installed both their Heat Deflector and the 4-window Flame Tamer and then ran another test along various temp settings. Here is the link to that session.

https://share.fireboard.io/771F50

You can see from my notes and the graph that the results were much improved - especially at the 250° mark, which is where most of my cooking will be done. I wouldn't put too much credence in the 275° results as I forgot to stop there on my way up the ladder and decided to catch it after I had noted the other temp results. So, you will notice the huge temp dip on the graph at 4:30 PM, as that's when I decided to try and go back to 275°. I opened the lid for a while to try and force it down more quickly.

The main thing that I want to know is when I set my PB's controller to a certain temp - what will actually happen in the smoker? I feel pretty good about the 250° temps, but the real test will be when the smoker actually has meat in it. Again, the good thing about the FireBoard is that it will allow me to document these future cooks and create a history that I can refer to and share with others.

Side note: while I was doing all of this, I performed an accuracy test on the two meat probes that came with the Pit Boss. Both of them read +/- 1° on the ice bath test and the boiling water test, so they (and the digital controller) are very accurate.

I hope that this might be of some help, and I look forward to learning from others on here!

 

[Freedbyjc]

I've been cooking for years on a Pit Barrel Cooker (PBC), and I've done a lot of temp research on it to fully understand how it worked so that I could best utilize it. I recently purchased a 1600PSE and wanted to do the same thing with it.

I have a FireBoard System that I used extensively on my PBC as it could run up to 6 probes and a fan - basically, it acted as a digital controller for my PBC, and it has BT and WiFi connectivity. So, when I burned in my new 1600PSE, I put two of my FireBoard's ambient probes on the bottom side of the middle grate to see how the actual temps compared to the Pit Boss controller, along with seeing the temp variance from side to side. One of the great things about FireBoard is that you can share your sessions with others. Here is the link to the times and temps during my burn-in.

https://share.fireboard.io/B96440

As you can see by running your mouse pointer along the graph, the variance from left to right was 75°-80° and 30°-40° above and below the PB Controller's temp. I was aware of these issues with temp variances and had read about the mods that Smokes Like A Boss had come up with to address them. So, I ordered and installed both their Heat Deflector and the 4-window Flame Tamer and then ran another test along various temp settings. Here is the link to that session.

https://share.fireboard.io/771F50

You can see from my notes and the graph that the results were much improved - especially at the 250° mark, which is where most of my cooking will be done. I wouldn't put too much credence in the 275° results as I forgot to stop there on my way up the ladder and decided to catch it after I had noted the other temp results. So, you will notice the huge temp dip on the graph at 4:30 PM, as that's when I decided to try and go back to 275°. I opened the lid for a while to try and force it down more quickly.

The main thing that I want to know is when I set my PB's controller to a certain temp - what will actually happen in the smoker? I feel pretty good about the 250° temps, but the real test will be when the smoker actually has meat in it. Again, the good thing about the FireBoard is that it will allow me to document these future cooks and create a history that I can refer to and share with others.

Side note: while I was doing all of this, I performed an accuracy test on the two meat probes that came with the Pit Boss. Both of them read +/- 1° on the ice bath test and the boiling water test, so they (and the digital controller) are very accurate.

I hope that this might be of some help, and I look forward to learning from others on here!

Temperature Probe Confusion



Absolutely normal for all pellet smokers … Unless your oven thermometers or meat probes, even if it is specifically meant for measuring air temperatures, were positioned EXACTLY like this (see photo) the tip of the thermometer almost touching the digital temperature probe, your personal temperature reading comparisons are totally invalid for comparison to the “Actual” temperature shown on the controller. Your grate temperatures are NEVER going to match the actual temperature shown on the controller.



The PitBoss controllers algorithms are set to create a stable temperature environment throughout the barrel ... not that exact temperature readings at every point across the grates. It just not possible with any pellet smoker.



If you’re interested in the grate temperatures, you’ll have to get a secondary thermometer probe specifically designed to measure that. Usually they have squared off or blunted tips and always come with grate clips to hold it off the smoker grates surface.



The ACTUAL temperature showing on the smokers controller is the reading of the digital temperature probe mounted on the left side of the barrel at that specific position ... it’s not “the grill” or “grate” temperatures by any means. Your grate and lid probes (if so equipped) are going to be different and probably higher or lower due to their placement in the barrel.



Watch your ACTUAL digital temperature, as it controls the controller, and if you feel it’s necessary, keep an eye on your grate temperature but the IT on your meat probe is the one temperature that’s the most important.



The supposed “probe problem” is that folks don’t know enough about their PitBoss smokers design to know that the digital temperature shown on the controller and the grate temperatures are almost never going to match.



Remember, your PitBoss has a controller with an awesome algorithm that runs the smoker. After you’ve used it a few times you’ll realize that it works and works well. Relax... put your temperature probes in the food where they belong and let that awesome smoker you bought do the work for you. Smoke On!



It’s definitely not a question of BELIEF of what’s correct but CHOICE of which to follow.

 

[Freedbyjc]

I've been cooking for years on a Pit Barrel Cooker (PBC), and I've done a lot of temp research on it to fully understand how it worked so that I could best utilize it. I recently purchased a 1600PSE and wanted to do the same thing with it.

I have a FireBoard System that I used extensively on my PBC as it could run up to 6 probes and a fan - basically, it acted as a digital controller for my PBC, and it has BT and WiFi connectivity. So, when I burned in my new 1600PSE, I put two of my FireBoard's ambient probes on the bottom side of the middle grate to see how the actual temps compared to the Pit Boss controller, along with seeing the temp variance from side to side. One of the great things about FireBoard is that you can share your sessions with others. Here is the link to the times and temps during my burn-in.

https://share.fireboard.io/B96440

As you can see by running your mouse pointer along the graph, the variance from left to right was 75°-80° and 30°-40° above and below the PB Controller's temp. I was aware of these issues with temp variances and had read about the mods that Smokes Like A Boss had come up with to address them. So, I ordered and installed both their Heat Deflector and the 4-window Flame Tamer and then ran another test along various temp settings. Here is the link to that session.

https://share.fireboard.io/771F50

You can see from my notes and the graph that the results were much improved - especially at the 250° mark, which is where most of my cooking will be done. I wouldn't put too much credence in the 275° results as I forgot to stop there on my way up the ladder and decided to catch it after I had noted the other temp results. So, you will notice the huge temp dip on the graph at 4:30 PM, as that's when I decided to try and go back to 275°. I opened the lid for a while to try and force it down more quickly.

The main thing that I want to know is when I set my PB's controller to a certain temp - what will actually happen in the smoker? I feel pretty good about the 250° temps, but the real test will be when the smoker actually has meat in it. Again, the good thing about the FireBoard is that it will allow me to document these future cooks and create a history that I can refer to and share with others.

Side note: while I was doing all of this, I performed an accuracy test on the two meat probes that came with the Pit Boss. Both of them read +/- 1° on the ice bath test and the boiling water test, so they (and the digital controller) are very accurate.

I hope that this might be of some help, and I look forward to learning from others on here!

Have you checked your new PITBOSS smoker for the PitBoss air gap issue and done the air gap mod to fix it yet?



Air Gap Modification - Models Affected: Austin XL 1000 (except ONYX) and Rancher XL 1000, 1000SC, 1000t2, 1000t3, 1000t4, 1000d3, ProSeries 1100, KC Combo, Charleston, PB 500, 1250 and 550 Sportsman, ProSeries 600, ProSeries 1150, 1600 Pro and Elite, and Navigator 550 & 1150 and Laredo 1000. Also the older 850 in the Competition series.



Unfortunately there is a well known, but easily corrected, design anomaly in some units ... a gap between the bottom of the drip tray and the top of the left side grease tray lip that allows firepot heat to blow directly on the digital temperature probe... see the photo below… it’s causes slower startups, flameouts and other low temperature related issues.



Since, due to the air gap, the firepot heat is blowing directly on the digital temperature probe, (see the other photo below)this will cause the smoker to flameout for no apparent reason. It’ll cause that flameout because the digital temperature probes temperature readings are falsely reading too high and it causes the digital temperature probe to register higher than your set temperatures and suppresses the auger runs. And that’ll cause a flameout every time by shutting down the auger runs and starving your fire of pellets



The air gap mod is a big deal on the Austin XL , the pro series 1100, PS2 1150, 1600, Laredo and basically ANY 1000 inch barrels AND the KC Combo. It takes them forever to settle down especially in the Smoke setting, and that's why, when people have them set to Smoke they're wondering why it's up around 250 or 300 degrees ... and it's all because the firepot heat is all blowing directly on that digital probe. Do the air gap mod and it will then register the temperatures correctly and it settles them right down.



Additionally, a QUICK and simple foil fix will temporarily work to address the issue ...(see the photo below) Fold sufficient aluminum foil to cover the air gap from side to side and put in place on the left side of the drip tray. Try a minimum of 4-5 layers … Done right, the foil will fold over and sit on top of the drip tray and as it hangs in the gap, this quick fix blocks the firepot heat from blowing directly on the temperature probe.



A detailed Instructional Video is below ... AND the Video is also in Announcements section of this page ... and if you’re interested, the prefabricated mod plate available at https://smokeslikeaboss.com/



This video explains better ..

 

[Texas Sooner]

Temperature Probe Confusion



Absolutely normal for all pellet smokers … Unless your oven thermometers or meat probes, even if it is specifically meant for measuring air temperatures, were positioned EXACTLY like this (see photo) the tip of the thermometer almost touching the digital temperature probe, your personal temperature reading comparisons are totally invalid for comparison to the “Actual” temperature shown on the controller. Your grate temperatures are NEVER going to match the actual temperature shown on the controller.



The PitBoss controllers algorithms are set to create a stable temperature environment throughout the barrel ... not that exact temperature readings at every point across the grates. It just not possible with any pellet smoker.



If you’re interested in the grate temperatures, you’ll have to get a secondary thermometer probe specifically designed to measure that. Usually they have squared off or blunted tips and always come with grate clips to hold it off the smoker grates surface.



The ACTUAL temperature showing on the smokers controller is the reading of the digital temperature probe mounted on the left side of the barrel at that specific position ... it’s not “the grill” or “grate” temperatures by any means. Your grate and lid probes (if so equipped) are going to be different and probably higher or lower due to their placement in the barrel.



Watch your ACTUAL digital temperature, as it controls the controller, and if you feel it’s necessary, keep an eye on your grate temperature but the IT on your meat probe is the one temperature that’s the most important.



The supposed “probe problem” is that folks don’t know enough about their PitBoss smokers design to know that the digital temperature shown on the controller and the grate temperatures are almost never going to match.



Remember, your PitBoss has a controller with an awesome algorithm that runs the smoker. After you’ve used it a few times you’ll realize that it works and works well. Relax... put your temperature probes in the food where they belong and let that awesome smoker you bought do the work for you. Smoke On!



It’s definitely not a question of BELIEF of what’s correct but CHOICE of which to follow.

Thanks for the info. Just an FYI - I was not measuring the grate temps.... that is just the place where I suspended the ambient air temp probes from using probe clips supplied by FireBoard for that purpose. I could care less what the grate temps are - I wanted to know the air temp nearest the Pit Boss probe and on the exact opposite side.

The probe on the left was almost touching the PB's internal temp probe - like in your photo, so I believe that it provided a true indication of the variance between the two. I'm not saying that the PB probe is inaccurate, just that that the temp that was shown on the controller screen was not the actual temp at the probe's location. The Fireboard's air temp probes are 100K thermistors and are very accurate.

While the PB Controller may be designed to provide a very stable temperature environment, the fact that there was a 70° - 80° difference from side to side is a little concerning. On stick burners, folks do biscuit tests across their entire grill to get to know its temp fluctuations. That's what I was attempting to do with my simple test. The majority of my cooking will be on the middle rack, so I primarily wanted to know the temp variances on it. With the two mods that I installed, I think that the huge temp variation from side to side should smooth out - at least the next test that I ran showed a major improvement.

And to your last point... that is how I plan to cook. Meat probes (I'll use both the PB's meat probes along with the FireBoard's meat probes) to monitor the meat. It's not the air temp or the cooking time, but the meat temp that matters. And when cooking brisket, I've found that not even meat temp can be relied on for a precise indication of when the meat is done and if it's "probe tender". The meat temp just gives you a great indication of when to check for probe tenderness.

I appreciate all of your feedback and suggestions. Take care.

 

[Texas Sooner]

Have you checked your new PITBOSS smoker for the PitBoss air gap issue and done the air gap mod to fix it yet?



Air Gap Modification - Models Affected: Austin XL 1000 (except ONYX) and Rancher XL 1000, 1000SC, 1000t2, 1000t3, 1000t4, 1000d3, ProSeries 1100, KC Combo, Charleston, PB 500, 1250 and 550 Sportsman, ProSeries 600, ProSeries 1150, 1600 Pro and Elite, and Navigator 550 & 1150 and Laredo 1000. Also the older 850 in the Competition series.



Unfortunately there is a well known, but easily corrected, design anomaly in some units ... a gap between the bottom of the drip tray and the top of the left side grease tray lip that allows firepot heat to blow directly on the digital temperature probe... see the photo below… it’s causes slower startups, flameouts and other low temperature related issues.



Since, due to the air gap, the firepot heat is blowing directly on the digital temperature probe, (see the other photo below)this will cause the smoker to flameout for no apparent reason. It’ll cause that flameout because the digital temperature probes temperature readings are falsely reading too high and it causes the digital temperature probe to register higher than your set temperatures and suppresses the auger runs. And that’ll cause a flameout every time by shutting down the auger runs and starving your fire of pellets



The air gap mod is a big deal on the Austin XL , the pro series 1100, PS2 1150, 1600, Laredo and basically ANY 1000 inch barrels AND the KC Combo. It takes them forever to settle down especially in the Smoke setting, and that's why, when people have them set to Smoke they're wondering why it's up around 250 or 300 degrees ... and it's all because the firepot heat is all blowing directly on that digital probe. Do the air gap mod and it will then register the temperatures correctly and it settles them right down.



Additionally, a QUICK and simple foil fix will temporarily work to address the issue ...(see the photo below) Fold sufficient aluminum foil to cover the air gap from side to side and put in place on the left side of the drip tray. Try a minimum of 4-5 layers … Done right, the foil will fold over and sit on top of the drip tray and as it hangs in the gap, this quick fix blocks the firepot heat from blowing directly on the temperature probe.



A detailed Instructional Video is below ... AND the Video is also in Announcements section of this page ... and if you’re interested, the prefabricated mod plate available at https://smokeslikeaboss.com/



This video explains better ..

That is the mod that I did - eliminated that air gap. It made a big difference. Thanks for the info!

 

[Ken S]

That is the mod that I did - eliminated that air gap. It made a big difference. Thanks for the info!

Just curious, which way did you install the flame tamer windows?

 

[Texas Sooner]

Windows front and back - open ends are left and right. The reason that I did it this way is that it allows the window sides to spread slightly and go over the nuts that protrude up from the fire box. That way, there is some tension on them and keeps the tamer in place.