PB1100 internal temp recalibration help

[Nursefunbun]

Hey y'all! Got the hubs a PB1100 for Christmas and we're just now really getting to use it. We attempted a 2.5lb chuck roast and instead of the estimated 6ish hr cook it took a full 12h to cook. Bought an oven thermometer and it's showing the internal (barrel) temp to be about 50 lower than what the thermometer on the smoker shows. Is there a way to recalibrate this? TIA! Sorry we're still learning.

 

[probak118]

Are you comparing the internal temperature along side the fixed internal probe on the left side, or somewhere else in the barrel ?
I have a PB1100PS2 and using a heat deflector along with a burn pot flame tamer my cook times are right on the money.

 

[Cowboy1955]

Hey y'all! Got the hubs a PB1100 for Christmas and we're just now really getting to use it. We attempted a 2.5lb chuck roast and instead of the estimated 6ish hr cook it took a full 12h to cook. Bought an oven thermometer and it's showing the internal (barrel) temp to be about 50 lower than what the thermometer on the smoker shows. Is there a way to recalibrate this? TIA! Sorry we're still learning.

Welcome from Texas to the group!
I’ve never been a fan of a gauge and I don’t use the probes that came with my 820.
I have a INKBIRD which works very well.
You might look into getting one

 

[Nursefunbun]

Are you comparing the internal temperature along side the fixed internal probe on the left side, or somewhere else in the barrel ?
I have a PB1100PS2 and using a heat deflector along with a burn pot flame tamer my cook times are right on the money.

I'm so sorry. I have absolutely no idea what that second part means. We are comparing the internal temp along side the fixed internal probe on the left side though.

 

[probak118]

So the two are right next to each other and 50 F difference between both. Have you compared the new oven gauge with say your oven to verify that new gauge is accurate first ?
Did the PB1100 not come with probes you can also connect and verify that the fixed probe on the left is reading what they are also ? Short of buying another standalone unit, that is all you can do to verify what you have is or is not working.

 

[Sparky]

Welcome to the club from Mesquite Texas

 

[Freedbyjc]

Hey y'all! Got the hubs a PB1100 for Christmas and we're just now really getting to use it. We attempted a 2.5lb chuck roast and instead of the estimated 6ish hr cook it took a full 12h to cook. Bought an oven thermometer and it's showing the internal (barrel) temp to be about 50 lower than what the thermometer on the smoker shows. Is there a way to recalibrate this? TIA! Sorry we're still learning.

Absolutely normal for all pellet smokers … Unless your oven thermometers or meat probes, even if it is specifically meant for measuring air temperatures, were positioned EXACTLY like this (see photo) the tip of the thermometer almost touching the digital temperature probe, your personal temperature reading comparisons are totally invalid for comparison to the “Actual” temperature shown on the controller. Your grate temperatures are NEVER going to match the actual temperature shown on the controller.



The PitBoss controllers algorithms are set to create a stable temperature environment throughout the barrel ... not that exact temperature readings at every point across the grates. It just not possible with any pellet smoker.



If you’re interested in the grate temperatures, you’ll have to get a secondary thermometer probe specifically designed to measure that. Usually they have squared off or blunted tips and always come with grate clips to hold it off the smoker grates surface.



The ACTUAL temperature showing on the smokers controller is the reading of the digital temperature probe mounted on the left side of the barrel at that specific position ... it’s not “the grill” or “grate” temperatures by any means. Your grate and lid probes (if so equipped) are going to be different and probably higher or lower due to their placement in the barrel.



Watch your ACTUAL digital temperature, as it controls the controller, and if you feel it’s necessary, keep an eye on your grate temperature but the IT on your meat probe is the one temperature that’s the most important.



The supposed “probe problem” is that folks don’t know enough about their PitBoss smokers design to know that the digital temperature shown on the controller and the grate temperatures are almost never going to match.



Remember, your PitBoss has a controller with an awesome algorithm that runs the smoker. After you’ve used it a few times you’ll realize that it works and works well. Relax... put your temperature probes in the food where they belong and let that awesome smoker you bought do the work for you. Smoke On!



It’s definitely not a question of BELIEF of what’s correct but CHOICE of which to follow.

 

[Freedbyjc]

I'm so sorry. I have absolutely no idea what that second part means. We are comparing the internal temp along side the fixed internal probe on the left side though.

Diffuser Mod



If toning down the hot spot over the firepot or getting even temperatures across the grates is what’s really important then you’ll probably want to look at the NEW firepot flame tamers or heat diffusers from Smokeslikeaboss that folks are using to even out the temperatures across the grates ... the posts of those who’ve done it (page search) say it really helps stabilizes the heat across the grates. Additionally, you’ll lose your sear function unless you switch it back or use something to reach through the slots and knock it off.

Pit Boss Pellet Grill/Pellet Smoker Owners

Pit Boss Heat Deflector Mod, Pit Boss Grills, Heat Deflector, Temperature Probe Shield, Temp Probe Shield, Austin XL, Pro 1100, Air Gap Mod, Rancher XL, PB1000T2, PB1000T3, 1000SC, Navigator, Sportsman, KC Combo, Heat Deflector Plate, Pit Boss temp issues, Pit Boss Modifications

smokeslikeaboss.com

 

[Freedbyjc]

I'm so sorry. I have absolutely no idea what that second part means. We are comparing the internal temp along side the fixed internal probe on the left side though.

Have you checked your new PITBOSS smoker for the PitBoss air gap issue and done the air gap mod to fix it yet?



Air Gap Modification - Models Affected: Austin XL 1000 (except ONYX) and Rancher XL 1000, 1000SC, 1000t2, 1000t3, 1000t4, 1000d3, ProSeries 1100, KC Combo, Charleston, PB 500, 1250 and 550 Sportsman, ProSeries 600, ProSeries 1150, 1600 Pro and Elite, and Navigator 550 & 1150 and Laredo 1000. Also the older 850 in the Competition series.



Unfortunately there is a well known, but easily corrected, design anomaly in some units ... a gap between the bottom of the drip tray and the top of the left side grease tray lip that allows firepot heat to blow directly on the digital temperature probe... see the photo below… it’s causes slower startups, flameouts and other low temperature related issues.



Since, due to the air gap, the firepot heat is blowing directly on the digital temperature probe, (see the other photo below)this will cause the smoker to flameout for no apparent reason. It’ll cause that flameout because the digital temperature probes temperature readings are falsely reading too high and it causes the digital temperature probe to register higher than your set temperatures and suppresses the auger runs. And that’ll cause a flameout every time by shutting down the auger runs and starving your fire of pellets



The air gap mod is a big deal on the Austin XL , the pro series 1100, PS2 1150, 1600, Laredo and basically ANY 1000 inch barrels AND the KC Combo. It takes them forever to settle down especially in the Smoke setting, and that's why, when people have them set to Smoke they're wondering why it's up around 250 or 300 degrees ... and it's all because the firepot heat is all blowing directly on that digital probe. Do the air gap mod and it will then register the temperatures correctly and it settles them right down.



Additionally, a QUICK and simple foil fix will temporarily work to address the issue ...(see the photo below) Fold sufficient aluminum foil to cover the air gap from side to side and put in place on the left side of the drip tray. Try a minimum of 4-5 layers … Done right, the foil will fold over and sit on top of the drip tray and as it hangs in the gap, this quick fix blocks the firepot heat from blowing directly on the temperature probe.



A detailed Instructional Video is below ... AND the Video is also in Announcements section of this page ... and if you’re interested, the prefabricated mod plate available at https://smokeslikeaboss.com/



This video explains better ..

 

[SPSandman]

Have you checked your new PITBOSS smoker for the PitBoss air gap issue and done the air gap mod to fix it yet?



Air Gap Modification - Models Affected: Austin XL 1000 (except ONYX) and Rancher XL 1000, 1000SC, 1000t2, 1000t3, 1000t4, 1000d3, ProSeries 1100, KC Combo, Charleston, PB 500, 1250 and 550 Sportsman, ProSeries 600, ProSeries 1150, 1600 Pro and Elite, and Navigator 550 & 1150 and Laredo 1000. Also the older 850 in the Competition series.



Unfortunately there is a well known, but easily corrected, design anomaly in some units ... a gap between the bottom of the drip tray and the top of the left side grease tray lip that allows firepot heat to blow directly on the digital temperature probe... see the photo below… it’s causes slower startups, flameouts and other low temperature related issues.



Since, due to the air gap, the firepot heat is blowing directly on the digital temperature probe, (see the other photo below)this will cause the smoker to flameout for no apparent reason. It’ll cause that flameout because the digital temperature probes temperature readings are falsely reading too high and it causes the digital temperature probe to register higher than your set temperatures and suppresses the auger runs. And that’ll cause a flameout every time by shutting down the auger runs and starving your fire of pellets



The air gap mod is a big deal on the Austin XL , the pro series 1100, PS2 1150, 1600, Laredo and basically ANY 1000 inch barrels AND the KC Combo. It takes them forever to settle down especially in the Smoke setting, and that's why, when people have them set to Smoke they're wondering why it's up around 250 or 300 degrees ... and it's all because the firepot heat is all blowing directly on that digital probe. Do the air gap mod and it will then register the temperatures correctly and it settles them right down.



Additionally, a QUICK and simple foil fix will temporarily work to address the issue ...(see the photo below) Fold sufficient aluminum foil to cover the air gap from side to side and put in place on the left side of the drip tray. Try a minimum of 4-5 layers … Done right, the foil will fold over and sit on top of the drip tray and as it hangs in the gap, this quick fix blocks the firepot heat from blowing directly on the temperature probe.



A detailed Instructional Video is below ... AND the Video is also in Announcements section of this page ... and if you’re interested, the prefabricated mod plate available at https://smokeslikeaboss.com/



This video explains better ..

O my goodness. I just joined the forum as I was starting to look at my Pro Series 1100 that has had symptoms just like this. It has been acting up for ages and really noticed this winter at Christmas with a prime rib I did. Was so hard to get it up to temp. I had to put an old coat that night, and then ordered the thermal blanket, which I really like. But it is still having issues.

Tonight could hardly get it over 150, and been having to open the sear to start temp up. It finally climbed to 225 with it set on 250. But I wanted 300 for the Mac n Cheese. I turned it up to 350 to get it heating up further. But it actually dropped to 155. I closed the sear this time and it moved up relatively quickly and actually got to 345 and had to knock it back to 300.

Sounds like I need to look at this. Thinking I may need a new board as well, or see if possibly to replace the entire thing to maybe get Blue tooth. Those came out like 3 months after I got mine. Mine has had issues for past 2 years tripping a GFI, but put in non-GFI and has no issues. Just been dealing with it. May need to look at the wiring connection I guess if I need to replace the control unit.

Thanks for the information. Rather not get another unit, as I really have had great smokes with the Pro 1100 minus the recent heat up issues that seem to happen past 6 months or so.

 

[SPSandman]

Are you comparing the internal temperature along side the fixed internal probe on the left side, or somewhere else in the barrel ?
I have a PB1100PS2 and using a heat deflector along with a burn pot flame tamer my cook times are right on the money.

With the flame tamer, are you still able to perform a good sear?