Temperature control after mods

jrhan762

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I've got an early Pit Boss 1150 PS2, controller has the current update and works. I replaced the RTD probe and Ignitor a little over a year ago, and it's ran well enough for my limited skill; but I'm starting to get really frustrated by it's uneven temps and inaccuracy. I am about to replace the sensor and Ignitor again, but I'd like to try some of the common mods first. To start I'm trashing the thin metal heat diffuser around the firepot and going with a plate style over it, as well as adding the curved deflector at the top end of the broiler plate. I'm also adding a gasket to the door and looking to seal any unnecessary gaps and holes. I am reserving ordering the Smoke Daddy firepot and broiler plate for my next round of fixes if I don't get satisfactory results. My immediate question is, what steps should I take to get the controller to adjust to the changes and regulate the temperature properly? I'm on the hook for some ribs on Saturday and I'd like to have it ready by then, but I can run ribs fine if it's not. Any help and thoughts are appreciated!
 
I've got an early Pit Boss 1150 PS2, controller has the current update and works. I replaced the RTD probe and Ignitor a little over a year ago, and it's ran well enough for my limited skill; but I'm starting to get really frustrated by it's uneven temps and inaccuracy. I am about to replace the sensor and Ignitor again, but I'd like to try some of the common mods first. To start I'm trashing the thin metal heat diffuser around the firepot and going with a plate style over it, as well as adding the curved deflector at the top end of the broiler plate. I'm also adding a gasket to the door and looking to seal any unnecessary gaps and holes. I am reserving ordering the Smoke Daddy firepot and broiler plate for my next round of fixes if I don't get satisfactory results. My immediate question is, what steps should I take to get the controller to adjust to the changes and regulate the temperature properly? I'm on the hook for some ribs on Saturday and I'd like to have it ready by then, but I can run ribs fine if it's not. Any help and thoughts are appreciated!
I use a INKBIRD not the probes on the pitboss
Make sure you’re temperature sensor is clean and you’ll be fine
Hopefully this helps you 🇺🇸🇺🇸
 
Get an external temp probe an cook to that, then do a 6 point temperatures map just above the grill. Do this at several temp settings Position your protein accordingly. Just know that we find the PB temp readouts inaccurate.
 
I've got an early Pit Boss 1150 PS2, controller has the current update and works. I replaced the RTD probe and Ignitor a little over a year ago, and it's ran well enough for my limited skill; but I'm starting to get really frustrated by it's uneven temps and inaccuracy. I am about to replace the sensor and Ignitor again, but I'd like to try some of the common mods first. To start I'm trashing the thin metal heat diffuser around the firepot and going with a plate style over it, as well as adding the curved deflector at the top end of the broiler plate. I'm also adding a gasket to the door and looking to seal any unnecessary gaps and holes. I am reserving ordering the Smoke Daddy firepot and broiler plate for my next round of fixes if I don't get satisfactory results. My immediate question is, what steps should I take to get the controller to adjust to the changes and regulate the temperature properly? I'm on the hook for some ribs on Saturday and I'd like to have it ready by then, but I can run ribs fine if it's not. Any help and thoughts are appreciated!
Have you checked your new PITBOSS smoker for the PitBoss air gap issue and done the air gap mod to fix it yet?

Air Gap Modification - Models Affected: Austin XL 1000 and Rancher XL 1000, 1000SC, 1000t2, 1000t3, 1000t4, 1000d3, ProSeries 1100, KC Combo, Charleston, PB 500, 1250 and 550 Sportsman, ProSeries 600, ProSeries 1150, 1600 Pro and Elite, and Navigator 550 & 1150 and Laredo 1000. Also the newer 850 in the Competition series.

Unfortunately there is a well known, but easily corrected, design anomaly in some units ... a gap between the bottom of the drip tray and the top of the left side grease tray lip that allows firepot heat to blow directly on the digital temperature probe... see the photo below… it’s causes slower startups, flameouts and other low temperature related issues.

Since, due to the air gap, the firepot heat is blowing directly on the digital temperature probe, (see the other photo below)this will cause the smoker to flameout for no apparent reason. It’ll cause that flameout because the digital temperature probes temperature readings are falsely reading too high and it causes the digital temperature probe to register higher than your set temperatures and suppresses the auger runs. And that’ll cause a flameout every time by shutting down the auger runs and starving your fire of pellets

The air gap mod is a big deal on the Austin XL , the pro series 1100, PS2 1150, 1600, Laredo and basically ANY 1000 inch barrels AND the KC Combo. It takes them forever to settle down especially in the Smoke setting, and that's why, when people have them set to Smoke they're wondering why it's up around 250 or 300 degrees ... and it's all because the firepot heat is all blowing directly on that digital probe. Do the air gap mod and it will then register the temperatures correctly and it settles them right down.

Additionally, a QUICK and simple foil fix will work ...(see the photo below) Fold sufficient aluminum foil to cover the air gap from side to side and put in place on the left side of the drip tray. Try a minimum of 4-5 layers … Done right, the foil will fold over and sit on top of the drip tray and as it hangs in the gap, this quick fix blocks the firepot heat from blowing directly on the temperature probe.

A detailed Instructional Video is below ... AND the Video is also in Announcements section of this page ... and if you’re interested, the prefabricated mod plate available at https://smokeslikeaboss.com/

This video explains better ..

 

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